| SAT 23 | 8:36am flight to PTY/VVI/EZE/FTE |
| SUN 24 | 11:35am arrive El Calafate buy supplies Perito Moreno glacier Hotel: Hostal Schilling |
| MON 25 | 8am-3pm Drive to Torres del Paine 3pm check-in 4pm-6pm Hike Salto Grande waterfall [2hrs] Hotel: Ecocamp Patagonia |
| TUE 26 | 8am Leave car in Las Torres 9am Shuttle to Laguna Amargas 9:45-10:45am Gomez bus to Pudeto 12pm ferry from Pudeto (or 12pm Lago Grey ferry) 12:30pm check into refugio; leave excess 1pm-8pm Hike [7hrs] 22km / 14mi Grey Glacier, RT Refugio: Paine Grande |
| WED 27 | 8am-7pm Hike [11hrs] 28km / 17mi Refugio: Cuernos Cabañas |
| THU 28 | 12am-6pm Hike [6hrs] 16km / 10mi Refugio: Refugio Chileno |
| FRI 29 | 4am-12pm Hike [8hrs] 18km / 11mi 1pm Lunch at Hosteria Las Torres; Retrieve car 2pm Drive back to El Calafate Hotel: Esplendor |
| SAT 30 | Free day 4:55pm - flight to Buenos Aires EZE Hotel: Le Petit Palais B&B (3 nights) |
| SUN 1 | Flea Markets |
| MON 2 | Colonia, Uruguay full day |
| TUE 3 | City exploring, cafes, tango show? 10:15pm flight VVI/PTY/BOS |
View Patagonia in a larger map
Torres del Paine, Chile
View Torres del Paine Hike in a larger map
Day 1 - Paine Grande to Glacier Grey (RT)
Mountain Lodge Paine Grande to Refugio Lago Grey hike takes four hours each way This hike follows a relatively easy trail with a few bits of challenging downhill scampers. The glacier lookout is another half-hour's hike away.
Day 2 - Paine Grande to Cuernos
The park's famous centerpiece is the Paine Massif, a small mountain system that is completely independent from the Patagonian Andes Range. Most people trek the 'W' from right to left (east to west), starting at Laguna Amarga, but hiking east to west - especially in the section from Lago Pehoé to Valle Francés - provides superior views of the Cuernos (which are otherwise to your back in that segment).
Day 3 - Los Cuernos to Refugio Chileno
Los Cuernos to Refugio Las Torres is a hike of seven hours one-way. Hikers should keep to the lower trail (the upper trail, which is not marked on maps, is twisty and not recommended - many get lost). There's camping and a refugio. Winds can be fierce along this section during high season
Almirante Nieto
Day 4 - Refugio Chileno to Las Torres and back down to Ecocamp Patagonia
The moderate hike from Refugio Las Torres to Mirador Las Torres, takes four hours one-way. This hike goes up Río Ascencio to a treeless tarn beneath the eastern face of the Torres del Paine proper. This is the closest view you will get of the towers. The last hour is a knee-popping scramble up boulders (covered with knee- and waist-high snow in winter).
More Photos of every part of the park
GPS
Tp1-0 Hosteria Las Torres S50.9738899 W72.8782151 00138 Tp2-0 Mirador Torres (Torres lookout) S50.9430843 W72.9484154 00906 Tp3-0 Albergue y Camping Chileno S50.9570725 W72.9107420 00413 Tp3-3 Sendero Paso Los Cuernos (*) S51.0221245 W72.9584306 00253 Tpc3 Campamento Italiano S51.0240235 W73.0415674 00228 Tp4-2 Valle del Frances (*) S50.9980111 W73.0526079 00553 Tp4-4 Basin lookout just above the camp S50.9826748 W73.0548404 00770 Tpc4 Campamento Britanico S50.9868421 W73.0549353 00693 Tp6-4 Albergue y Camping Gray turnoff S51.0093288 W73.1748289 00012 Tp7-1 Glaciar Grey lookout near C-Paso(*) S50.9588138 W73.1996380 00492 Tp8-0 Lago Pehoe lookout (*) S51.0812347 W73.0943749 00044 Tp9-2a Administration S51.1784403 W72.9566251 00052 Tp9-4n Lago Nordenskjold lookout S51.0485257 W73.0132995 00127 Tp9-5s Salto Grande S51.0675633 W73.0062587 00068 Tpc9 Camping Pehoe near Hotel Explora S51.1081104 W72.9883757 00041
OFFICIAL MAP JPG
Fantastico Sur W Map
Park Map (PDF)
Other fees/info
TripAdvisor Forums
someone's blog
SWITCHBACK Guide
All visitors to Torres del Paine National Park must pay a steep entrance fee ($18,000 pesos for foreigners or $38 USD, CASH) but once inside CONAF-run campgrounds are free. Water inside the park is said to be drinkable without treatment
OTHER SITES (with a car)
Mt. Ferrier mirador
While quite a short hike, only about 2km, it has an elevation gain of about 730m. The view from the top covers pretty much the entirety of the accessible areas of the park that can be seen by car.
The walk is pretty straight-forward as you leave the well-defined car park and head right towards the thunderous torrent along a well-established trail. You can extend the 30-minute return hike into a 2-hour return hike by walking north towards the Mirador de Los Cuernos at the shores of Lago Nordenskjöld. There are dramatic views of the horns of Paine rising sharply above the lake.
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CURRENCY
1.00 USD = 5.75700 ARS
1.00 USD = 501.779 CLPBe careful not to have too many pesos left when you depart. At the exchange counter when leaving, they need the bank statement showing exchanges in order to get any other currency for the remaining pesos. ATM receipts aren't accepted.
WEATHER
OCT-DEC: 36-64 degrees
NOV 25 sunrise: 5:40am - sunset at 9:40pm
NOV 25 sunrise: 5:40am - sunset at 9:40pm
FEES AND TAXES
Pay $160 reciprocity fee ahead of time online
1) Enter the web site www.provinciapagos.com.ar of Provincia Pagos and register to start the process.
2) Complete the form with the corresponding personal and credit card information.
3) Print the payment receipt.
4) On arrival in Argentina, this printed receipt must be presented at Immigration Control. The receipt will be scanned by the Immigration officials, the information will be checked, and the traveler's entry to the country registered. The fee is valid for ten years from the date of payment and multiple entries.
El Calafate Argentina Airport exit fee
The airport is 23km (14 miles) from the center of town. A taxi into town should cost no more than $9. Please note that on the exit from this airport, all travelers are required to pay an airport exit tax of $18.
Be prepared to wait in a long line to pay your fee therefore account for this when arriving to the airport.
FOOD RESTRICTIONS
video
Allowed foods
Chile Border
When entering Chile via Cerro Castillo border crossing, they should issue a free tourist card, which must be returned upon leaving back into Argentina.
TRANSPORTATION
TdP - El Calafate (394 km)
Chile border crossing
Driving from El Calafate
It is about 350 km, from El Calafate to Torres del Paine. It will take about 5.5 hours in good weather.
From Calafate, drive to Cancha Carrera (border crossing) that drops you into Cerro Castillo, Chile. You start on Hwy 11 from Calafate, merge onto Hwy 40. About 5 km after you turn, the road will climb a steep hill. Stop at the viewpoint to have a look northward - it is a great view. Then follow Hwy 5 southeast to La Esperanza. They have gas there (fill UP!). Then head back west on 7 and it merges back with 40 in 20km. There's a filling station about 40 km before the border crossing. Fill up IF THEY HAVE GAS (not always open?). For the direct, rugged route: About 30 km after getting on 40, highway 5 will continue straight ahead. Turn right onto 40. The sign for your turn is small. Watch closely or you will miss it. Continue on highway 40 southwestward for about 70 km.
When highway 40 gets near the Chilean border, watch for the signs. (The name on the border crossing is Cerro Castillo). You have to turn right to go through customs. The sign is near an intersection of two highways, and it looks like the sign says to turn right on the other highway. But turn right about 100 yards before the main intersection. It will look like a road into some farmer's goat pasture, but it is the road into Chile. Go up the hill, and around the corner, and you will come to a small building on the left side of the road. There will be a chain across the road. Stop in front of the chain, park, and walk into the building. They will handle your paperwork and drop the chain for you. Then you drive about 1 km until you see several buildings on the right. One of them is Chilean customs.
Apparently you can stop at gift shops after you enter Chile to exchange USD for Chilean pesos, but bills must be crisp and unfolded.
driving map
Blog about the drive
Maps, routes
| DRIVING + GAS $750 | TOUR BUS + PM $500 | |
| PROS | - Perito Moreno on own - time to hike to Grey Glacier - gain 1/2 day to explore TdP - no rush last day; car at Las Torres - faster through border crossing | - do Perito Moreno mini trek - $250 cheaper - no worry about gas - no worry about getting lost |
| CONS | - $250 more expensive - few gas stations - navigation | - miss hiking to Grey Glacier - miss 1/2 day to explore TdP - rush last day to Laguna Amargas via shuttle - longer delay at border crossing |
It is about 350 km, from El Calafate to Torres del Paine. It will take about 5.5 hours in good weather.
When highway 40 gets near the Chilean border, watch for the signs. (The name on the border crossing is Cerro Castillo). You have to turn right to go through customs. The sign is near an intersection of two highways, and it looks like the sign says to turn right on the other highway. But turn right about 100 yards before the main intersection. It will look like a road into some farmer's goat pasture, but it is the road into Chile. Go up the hill, and around the corner, and you will come to a small building on the left side of the road. There will be a chain across the road. Stop in front of the chain, park, and walk into the building. They will handle your paperwork and drop the chain for you. Then you drive about 1 km until you see several buildings on the right. One of them is Chilean customs.
Apparently you can stop at gift shops after you enter Chile to exchange USD for Chilean pesos, but bills must be crisp and unfolded.
driving map
Blog about the drive
Maps, routes
Border Crossing process
blog post about the drive
Car Rental companies in El Calafate
another map
another post about the drive
blog post about the drive
Car Rental companies in El Calafate
another map
another post about the drive
BUSSES
El Calafate DIRECT to Torres del Paine (on tour bus)
Includes a hike to Salto Grande ( a very nice waterfall ) if the weather is nice. The tour includes an English speaking guide. During the tour you’ll see everything from the first moment you get into the National Park (the Towers, horns and all the different lakes) and they’ll stop at any moment you want to for making pictures. It is also a good option for people who want to stay there to spend three nights to make the “W” Trek.
Drop off at Laguna Amarga 6am - 12pm
Return: pick up at Laguna Amarga at 5pm - 10pm
El Calafate DIRECT to Torres del Paine (on tour bus)
Includes a hike to Salto Grande ( a very nice waterfall ) if the weather is nice. The tour includes an English speaking guide. During the tour you’ll see everything from the first moment you get into the National Park (the Towers, horns and all the different lakes) and they’ll stop at any moment you want to for making pictures. It is also a good option for people who want to stay there to spend three nights to make the “W” Trek.
Drop off at Laguna Amarga 6am - 12pm
Return: pick up at Laguna Amarga at 5pm - 10pm
$117pp
Laguna Amarga ranger station to Puerto Natales
(to get from the trailhead to Laguna Amarga, shuttles run back and forth for $2,500 pesos, or you can walk the additional 11km)
14:30 and 19:30
Cost ?
Minivan shuttle between Laguna Amargas and Los Torres Hosteria
2500 CLP ($6)
Travel between two points within the park (eg Pudeto to Laguna Amarga) costs US$6. Services are provided by Bus Sur (Baquedano 668, T061-614220, http://www.bus-sur.cl) Fortaleza (Prat 258, T061-410595) and JB (Prat 258, T061-412824)
Lago Grey Ferry
ONE WAY Hosteria Grey to Refugio Grey
$45,000 ($90 USD)
Pehoe Ferry
In general, the catamaran starts each day at Refugio Pudeto on the east end of Lago Pehoe (this is also the trail head for the 1km hike to the waterfalls, Salto Grande). There is small building there with a cafeteria and restrooms. You buy tickets on the boat itself. It takes 30 minutes to navigate across the lake and if the weather is nice you want to be on the open air upper deck because the view is quite nice. You arrive at Refugio Paine Grande where you disembark and the boat picks up the hikers heading to Pudeto.
Nov 16 to March 15 (30MIN TRIP)
Pehoe Ferry
In general, the catamaran starts each day at Refugio Pudeto on the east end of Lago Pehoe (this is also the trail head for the 1km hike to the waterfalls, Salto Grande). There is small building there with a cafeteria and restrooms. You buy tickets on the boat itself. It takes 30 minutes to navigate across the lake and if the weather is nice you want to be on the open air upper deck because the view is quite nice. You arrive at Refugio Paine Grande where you disembark and the boat picks up the hikers heading to Pudeto.
Nov 16 to March 15 (30MIN TRIP)
departs Pudeto at 9:30AM, 12PM and 6PM
One way ticket is 11,000 pesos ($22), round trip is 19,000 pesos ($38) - CASH ON THE BOAT
departs Paine Grande at 10AM, 12:30PM and 6:30PM.
One way ticket is 11,000 pesos ($22), round trip is 19,000 pesos ($38) - CASH ON THE BOAT
You are allowed one backpack. Additional luggage is 4,000 pesos per bag (max weight is 50 kg).
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LODGING
LODGING
SUN: Schilling Hostal Patagonia $62/night, wi-fi, breakfast, parking
MON: Ecocamp Patagonia $265/night (breakfast, parking, shared bathrooms)
TUE: Mountain Lodge Paine Grande $50pp for a basic bunk, no sheets
Refugio Paine Grande
WED: Los Cuernos Cabañas $155/night
Refugio Los Cuernos
THU: Refugio El Chileno $50pp basic bed/ $9pp sleeping bag
Refugio Chileno
FRI: Esplendor El Calafate $125, wi-fi, breakfast, parking, pool
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El Calafate, Argentina
Located just 80km from Los Glaciares National Park, El Calafate serves as the jumping-off point for visits to the park. The southern sector of the park holds one of the world's largest ice fields after those of Antarctica and Greenland. The park's main attractions are the enormous glaciers that flow down from the heights of the Southern Continental Ice Cap, most notably the blue-hued towering obelisks of ice known as the Perito Moreno Glacier. A visit to the glacier is undoubtedly one of the highlights of many a tourist's time in Patagonia.
Located just 80km from Los Glaciares National Park, El Calafate serves as the jumping-off point for visits to the park. The southern sector of the park holds one of the world's largest ice fields after those of Antarctica and Greenland. The park's main attractions are the enormous glaciers that flow down from the heights of the Southern Continental Ice Cap, most notably the blue-hued towering obelisks of ice known as the Perito Moreno Glacier. A visit to the glacier is undoubtedly one of the highlights of many a tourist's time in Patagonia.
Perito Moreno National Glacier Park
The road from El Calafate to Perito Moreno Glacier is paved and takes about a little over a half-hour. The reviewing platforms directly across Lake Argentino from the tongue of the glacier are a breathtaking spot. You descend on foot 476 steps.
The road from El Calafate to Perito Moreno Glacier is paved and takes about a little over a half-hour. The reviewing platforms directly across Lake Argentino from the tongue of the glacier are a breathtaking spot. You descend on foot 476 steps.
$23 admission
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PACK FOR HIKING (4 DAYS)
• Regular synthetic underwear x 4
• waterproof hiking pants
• shorts
• running tights x 2
• Synthetic top x 2
• snowboard jacket
• Woolly hat
• Waterproof gloves
• Synthetic hiking socks x 5
• waterproof trekking boots
• Sunglasses
• face-mask
• flip flops
• watershoes
• bathing suit (for hot tub)
toiletries:
• Toothpaste
• Toothbrush
• dr. bronner's Soap
• Sunblock
• SPF lip balm
• Insect repellent (bed bugs?)
• Travel towel
• Deodorant
• wet-wipes
For hiking:
• water bottle x 2
• headlamp
• Plastic bags for wet clothing
• Multi-tool knife
• -9°C thermal sleeping bag (for camping and refugios)
• Mess kit (including pan, cup, plate, knife, fork and spoon)
• Compass
• Toilet paper
• Hiking poles
• Small locks for bags
• padlocks for luggage lockers
• Safety pins
Food
• precooked bags of pasta / rice / noodles
• mre indian food
• Tortillas
• Peanut butter
• veggie jerky
• Candy for 7 days
• instant coffee sachets / hot chocolate sachets
Medical
• Over-the-counter painkillers
• Over-the-counter diarrhea treatment
• Band aids
• Blister plasters
• Knee braces
• Personal medication
Other extras
All hikers:
• Camera with spare memory, lenses, remote
• Camera charger
• Phone
• earbuds
• i-pad
• Phone charger, portable charger
• Electrical adapter argentina, chile
• Mini sewing kit
• Duct tape
Paperwork
• Passport
• Plane tickets
• Chilean tourist card
• US Dollars and/or Chilean Pesos
• List of useful phone numbers (tour operators, hotels, etc.)
• Detailed topographical map of Torres del Paine
• hotel booking confirmation print outs
Things to do before you leave
• Pay reciprocity fee
• Notify your bank and credit card providers (so they don’t block your cards)
• Ensure your travel insurance covers hiking up to 900 metres above sea level
• Check your headlamp batteries
• Leave a copy of your itinerary, passport and insurance details in the car
• Regular synthetic underwear x 4
• waterproof hiking pants
• shorts
• running tights x 2
• Synthetic top x 2
• snowboard jacket
• Woolly hat
• Waterproof gloves
• Synthetic hiking socks x 5
• waterproof trekking boots
• Sunglasses
• face-mask
• flip flops
• watershoes
• bathing suit (for hot tub)
toiletries:
• Toothpaste
• Toothbrush
• dr. bronner's Soap
• Sunblock
• SPF lip balm
• Insect repellent (bed bugs?)
• Travel towel
• Deodorant
• wet-wipes
For hiking:
• water bottle x 2
• headlamp
• Plastic bags for wet clothing
• Multi-tool knife
• -9°C thermal sleeping bag (for camping and refugios)
• Mess kit (including pan, cup, plate, knife, fork and spoon)
• Compass
• Toilet paper
• Hiking poles
• Small locks for bags
• padlocks for luggage lockers
• Safety pins
Food
• precooked bags of pasta / rice / noodles
• mre indian food
• Tortillas
• Peanut butter
• veggie jerky
• Candy for 7 days
• instant coffee sachets / hot chocolate sachets
Medical
• Over-the-counter painkillers
• Over-the-counter diarrhea treatment
• Band aids
• Blister plasters
• Knee braces
• Personal medication
Other extras
All hikers:
• Camera with spare memory, lenses, remote
• Camera charger
• Phone
• earbuds
• i-pad
• Phone charger, portable charger
• Electrical adapter argentina, chile
• Mini sewing kit
• Duct tape
Paperwork
• Passport
• Plane tickets
• Chilean tourist card
• US Dollars and/or Chilean Pesos
• List of useful phone numbers (tour operators, hotels, etc.)
• Detailed topographical map of Torres del Paine
• hotel booking confirmation print outs
Things to do before you leave
• Pay reciprocity fee
• Notify your bank and credit card providers (so they don’t block your cards)
• Ensure your travel insurance covers hiking up to 900 metres above sea level
• Check your headlamp batteries
• Leave a copy of your itinerary, passport and insurance details in the car
